Great Exuma dining make people remember this
Fisherman's Inn is the most isolated restaurant in the Exumas, a ramshackle, wood-sided hideaway that's set on a low ridge above the sea on the island of Barraterre, a 40- to 60-minute drive from George Town. Connected with two separate causeways to the "mainland" of Great Exuma Island, it's literally at the end of the line for motorists looking for a lonely, sun-bleached, and windblasted excursion from George Town. Don't come here with the assurance that there will be anything in the larder at the time of your arrival. If the season is slow, or if the supplies "didn't make it in that week," you might be faced with a smile and perhaps a somewhat erratic dialogue from the owner, and 'nary a crust of bread. The best idea involves calling ahead, surveying the gastronomic lay of the land, and then discussing with the staff what may, or may not, be available that day. Expect a roster of fish, chicken, beefsteaks, soups, salads, and stews, lots of local color, and a genuine sense of the degree to which parts of The Bahamas archipelago are isolated from the rest of the world. Iva Bowe's Central Highway Inn Restaurant & Bar a roadside tavern, operated by Gottfried B. Bowe, specializes in very tender cracked conch. The conch is marinated in lime, pounded to make it tender, and then fried with her own special seasonings. It's the best in the Exumas. You might also try Iva's lobster linguini or shrimp scampi. This is good Bahamian cookery. If Bogie were alive today, he'd surely head for Sam's Place, a laid-back second-floor restaurant and bar overlooking the harbor in George Town. Sam Gray, the owner, offers breakfasts to catch the early boating crowd. Lunches could include everything from freshly made conch chowder to curry chicken. You'll also be able to order an array of sandwiches throughout the day. The dinner menu changes daily, but you're likely to find such well-prepared main courses as Exuma lobster tail, roast lamb, and Bahamian pan-fried grouper. At dinner, the talk here is of one of everybody's dreams -- owning a private utopia, one of those uninhabited cays still remaining in the Exuma chain. Owned by one of the island's most entrepreneurial taxi drivers, Kermit Rolle, Kermit's Airport Lounge, a simple but appealing place lies across the road from the entrance to the airport. It's the semiofficial waiting room for most of the island's flights, and it might make your wait more convenient and fun. You can usually find Kermit hanging out here. The cook will fry you some fish, and there's always beans and rice around. Johnnycake and sandwiches are also available, along with burgers and an array of tropical drinks. Until an airplane flies you to a better restaurant, this place can come in handy.
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